I’ve always opened myself to serendipitous adventures in all of my travels, and Rome has been no different. On my last night in Rome, I missed the last metro – compounded by the fact that this also meant I missed the last bus to my hostel from the Cornelia Metro station. Jessica, with whom I had dinner and spent my last night with, had urged me to take a cab, but having spent just about all the Euros I had, as I had planned, I took my chances with the night transit system. After all, I did buy a ticket by then, so why not at least try to use it?
Perhaps it would have been a little different had we not got lost after dinner, taking a wrong turn, ending up in the middle of a celebration for what seemed to be the Democratic Party of Italy. Somehow, we missed the Coliseum, where Jess’s hotel was located. Don’t ask me how we missed it – we took a wrong turn, which is all the more embarrassing since we walked to the restaurant from the hotel not more than 4 hours earlier, and I had spent the entire day yesterday walking around Rome and playing the tourist. Thankfully, there were hundreds of people around – unfortunately, our skill of Italian left something to be desired. Mi scuzzi, parla inglezi? Eventually on our third try, we got the right direction from the locals after having done a circle. I’ve got to admit, as much as Jess was beginning to stress, I was authentically enjoying myself. How on Earth did we miss something as massive as the Coliseum? I blame dinner, and the dinner conversation.
Right as we finally realized we were on track, I saw just what time it was, and that in this very Catholic country, everything really shuts down on a Sunday night. We parted as Jessica made her way back to her hotel and I ran for the Coliseum Metro station about 100 metres away.
As I approached the station, I noticed the bars on the door that I thought I hadn’t seen the day earlier. I was able to get into the station and buy my ticket, but as I approached the gates to the subway, a number of Italian service personnel indicated very clearly that we had missed the last train – and it wasn’t even midnight by then. I had heard earlier in the weekend that there was a bus that followed the two lines of the Metro system. Shouldn’t be too difficult – take the bus up to Termini, then take it all the way to Cornelia, and I’d figure out what to do about the last little stretch when I got to the station.
I wasn’t the only one with this predicament. There were a number of couples, one from Russia, another from America, and a pair of girls from Australia, all in the same predicament. Admittedly, waiting for the bus in the warm Roman air right next to the spot lit Coliseum was far from painful. It was a good twenty minutes before we were able to get the night bus, as it wasn’t midnight then, and as I learnt the hard way, Italian buses never run on time.
I felt the urge to just stick it out and explore more of the Roman core and catch the first bus in the morning. It would be at 5:30 AM, and my shuttle from the hostel didn’t leave for the airport until 6:45. But I did have to repack, and the city air made me want to take a shower before a nine hour flight – the least I could do for the poor person who would sit next to me – nope, I’ll find a way to get to my hostel. Note to self for my next trip; find accommodations that aren’t two subway lines and a bus away, regardless of how much more expensive it is. And perhaps a place that didn’t make me pay separately for towels, or get the top bunk in the triple occupancy room. But I digress.
The Termini wasn’t too far away, and truth be told, I could have walked it faster than waiting for the bus. Thankfully, this city doesn’t really sleep and there were many native Romans heading home from their Sunday night events, including a large number of teens coming home from an Anastasia concert. Again, I break out my broken Italian to find that the direction I was going in was completely different from the majority of the crowd.
The bus itself was exciting, as it rushed through the ancient streets of Rome, passing by many of the attractions I had spent the weekend roaming around. Fountains, bridges, statues, all along the ancient cobblestone roads. It was all incredibly beautiful, I had to admit, and the city shined through the night. St. Peter’s and the Vatican. Prior to my departure, many of my friends told me that I would be taken a back at just how different, how European it all was. Looking at the entire experience, I couldn’t help but disagree. Certainly, the language was different, the roads were worn from thousands of years of use, the streets were narrow and the buildings were old – but this was all a veneer – just a surface deep change of the setting – the plot remained the same. This put me at a bit of an ease – one of the questions that I had continuously asked myself is what aren’t we getting as North Americans? What does all of Europe realize that we’re completely missing? What is that solution to all of our civic problems? I came to find that Europe, or at very least Rome, has many of the same problems and few of its own that are a bit worse. It’s not so much that European society has the answers, but rather the humour and ease with which they deal with them (or simply put up with them) is the difference.
As I progressed further from the downtown, the streets became more suburban, in a similar vain to any North American city. Wider, with more traffic, the buildings newer, and the culture more uniform. The use of English was less prominent, their facilities more modern, and the bane of North America, the parking lot, were attached to most buildings. It became clear to me that this was where the modern Roman lived, not in those ancient cobblestone streets shined and polished for the tourist, but in this gritty reality that I had been shielded from by the metro.
The bus approached the metro stop that I had normally been getting off at. I knew that I would have to walk from here since the connecting bus had long ended for the night. It was 1:30 AM. This meant I’d have to walk the few kilometres to get to my hostel – not particularly appealing at this hour of night. The subway map seemed to indicate that the next (and last station) on the line was generally in the same direction as my hostel – and perhaps a bit closer. If only I had a map that actually covered the area around my hostel. Further, this station being the last, if I was wrong I could stay on this bus as it went back towards the city. Wrong on both accounts. Not only did the bus turn in precisely the wrong direction, taking me further away from my hostel, it stopped at the final station, and then proceeded to go out of service. There I was, left alone in a section of Rome that I had never seen, and this area looked a little rougher than any others I had been. That gambit clearly hadn’t paid off.
I had some sense of cardinal directions and walked towards the better lit area. I ran into a man who seemed to be waiting for someone, and he was thankfully reasonably well dressed and looked about 30 or so. I approached him to ask for directions in the off chance he spoke any English. He didn’t – but he had some French. Anyone who’s seen my French knows that it leaves much to be desired, but I plugged away. He knew my hostel – it was right by his loft, but that was more than 5 km away now. But in an odd, appreciated, kindness amongst strangers way, he offered to drive me. On his Vespa.
This ride was particularly amusing on the old roads of Rome. Thankfully, no one was around to watch. Me, holding on for dear life on the back of the kind man’s scooter. Remembering the casualty of my motorcycle ride with Dan to Peterborough, I kept my shoes (the only pair I brought) well away from the exhaust pipe. In this whole commotion, I forgot to look for foot grips on the back if there were any. This meant I had to keep my feet held high above the road, scraping my soles on every bump. I suppose this would have been comedic if I weren’t so tired.
We eventually made it to an area that seemed familiar, and made it to the man’s apartment building. I thanked him profusely and began walking towards my hostel. It was close now. One thing I had forgotten, however, was that the road going to my hostel turned into a bit of a highway. For this final stretch, there I was, walking on the edge of an Italian highway, with the crazy driving and the blind corners, just trying to avoid being blind sighted by a car or truck. I made it, eventually got some sleep, avoiding to fully wake up as my Aussie roommates entered the door going on about their failed exploits. I couldn’t help but smile a bit as I knew I too had a story to tell of an adventure of my own.